Indigo Farming and Dying at rickettsindigo

Hi, I am getting ready for our first show of the year, the Creative Stitches and Crafting Alive show in Victoria BC.  Possibly I already told you that.

The again, maybe not, I’ve been so busy scrambling to get patterns published, new samples made, and meters and meters and meters of cotton and linen/cotton fabric cut and folded.  Who knew that would take so long?

So…I’m just going to send you somewhere else for your sashiko/indigo fix this week (-:  Once again, you can see how indigo and sashiko are so linked in my mind that I think of one as the extension of the other.

The process and textiles on this site make me feel like crying they are so beautiful.  I want to quit everything I am doing and do this too.

http://rickettsindigo.com/indigo/Farming/IndigoFarming.html

 

Talk to you soon,

Susan

Why Sashiko Designs Don’t Bore Your Brain

You have noticed, possibly, that I called my Sashiko History pages “History and Probability”.  This is because I am not persuaded that we get the stories and explanations for the past accurate.

That being established, here is something I wondered about and am drawing my own conclusion.

Why don’t we get tired of the traditional sashiko designs?   What makes them still ‘work’ for us even after looking at them for several years, as I have been doing?

They are, after all, pretty simple looking geometric designs.

Here is why I think our brains remain pleased and interested.  I took the following passage from a book called Fractals, The Patterns of Chaos, Discovering a New Aesthetic of Art, Science and Nature by John Briggs.  He writes:

“To make great artworks, artists must find ….just the right balance of harmony and dissonance to create tension and the illuminating ambiguities that can flow from it.  That proper balance is the one that catches the brain’s processing by surprise and subverts habituation.  It’s the balance that forces our brain to experience the words or forms or melodies as if for the first time, every time, no matter how many times we have encountered them before.”

What holds our interest in the traditional sashiko designs is the perfect balance between the strong geometric design, and the “wait, what’s this?” surprise of discovering that the design might not be the design, and yet still being sure it is.   In other words, when we look at sashiko stitching we see a repetitive pattern and our brain enjoys that, but it doesn’t become habituated to the pattern (bored) because it is repeatedly engaged and stimulated by having something to figure out and finish.

Some sashiko designs are more strongly appealing that others, and this, I think, is created by the effect of the extra stimulation of the brain in figuring out which design to see.   For example, in the design below, you may see the flowers, or you may see linked circles, or your brain may focus on the long oval lines.sashiko runner circles or flowers?In the Sayagata design below the brain switches back and forth, trying to decide whether the key fret goes to the left or the right.  This would be tiring if the overall design were not so strong, but the definite white lines on the dark blue background assert a strong enough pattern that the brain is intrigued by the option of left or right.

One more example.  This design is a particularly complex one for all it’s apparent simplicity.  I see hexagons, wreath like circles and triangles, and all of them please me enough that I want to see them, so my brain is kept entertained and interested moving from one to another.  Once stitched, the strong fractured, white lines on a dark blue background will add another layer of interest, in the brains need to connect the stitches into lines.

The technique for making  sashiko stitches creates a balanced broken line: long stitch, short space, long stitch, short space.  If you want to see how this also keeps the brain pleased and interested, try stitching some even stitches and spaces, some irregular stitches and spaces, and some good sashiko stitches where the stitches are 2/3 the length of the spaces between them.  You will see that your brain finds the even stitching less engaging, and the irregular stitching intriguing only for a short time.  The 2/3 , 1/3 patterning of the sashiko stitch lets the brain easily see and enjoy the design, but leaves it something to do to keep it engaged (it ‘fills’ in or ‘finishes’ the design)

There is one more element that lends to the enduring quality of sashiko design, or put the another way, that gives the brain enough to do while looking at the sashiko that it stays engaged and interested.  It is the relationship between the stitching and the background.  In some designs this may be one of the strongest dynamics of the design.  Take the Diamond Waves design for example. Are the waves the white lines or the blue spaces between them? It doesn’t matter, but the design is more interesting because of the choice.

Talk to you again soon,

Susan

  • Susan Fletcher,
  • February 2012

More About Indigo

Hi,

I came across this link and excerpt in one of my old  newsletters.  It is too interesting not to share. I wish I could visit this place.

Below is an except copied from the  link:
The house where indigo lives

It is worthwhile to take a look at the link and while you are there have a look at some of the other articles about craftspeople, artists and design.indigo workshop

An indigo dye workshop built in the Edo period. It is here where Tadashi Higeta tends his vats of dye, full to the brim with foaming blue liquid. Indigo was once a pillar of Japanese domestic life, and has now been pushed to the wayside. This quiet, intellectual man is keeping his family tradition alive.

Interviewed by Takafumi Suzuki
Translated by Claire Tanaka

There is an interview, this bit is taken from it:

When was this indigo dyeing workshop founded?
It was founded over 200 years ago. They say the person who started the workshop had lost a child, and was inspired by his grief to build a workshop where “people can come together”. This kagiya-style building was built in the latter part of the Edo period. I am the ninth generation at this indigo workshop.
Words like “ninth generation” and “Edo period” really give a sense of historical significance.
Well, I suppose it’s a sort of “preserving tradition for future generations” kind of thing, isn’t it. These days, young people aren’t familiar with indigo dyeing at all. But in the olden days, indigo dyeing workshops were called kouya and they were all over the country. Here in Tochigi prefecture alone, there were several hundred. Back in those days, the fabric of Japan was a beautiful blue. About eighty percent of Japanese clothing was dyed with indigo back then.

Symbolism and Sashiko Designs

A little bit about symbolism in sashiko designs

How does symbolism in design happen?

This is not a researched answer, but I think its likely that women doing this stitching found it more interesting if they based the designs on things that had meaning for them.   This would account for why designs that represent the sea and fishing are found on the coastal fishing peoples clothing (diamond waves for example) and designs having to do with crops (plowed fields, windblown grasses) are found on the clothing of the inland farming peoples.

As well as designs symbolizing the natural world and the work their men did, there are the designs that I think come from the domestic cares and work of the women themselves:  rice box and steam rising for kitchen work for instance, or tortoise shell as a symbol for good fortune and long life, hemp leaf as a symbol for strong health and bamboo as a symbol for vitality and prosperity.  It is easy to imagine women stitching these designs into garments and household linens as a way to wish these things for their family and friends.

A new baby blanket might be stitched with a combination of flax leaf and tortoiseshell to wrap the baby in her hopes for strong health, a long life, and prosperity for it, for example. Or perhaps cherry blossoms and the lucky three design would be stitched to wish a girl born in the spring the hope of a good (lucky) future.

Many sashiko designs incorporate several meanings and can be combined to make symbolic messages.

Plum blossoms, bamboo and pine bark are often stitched into the same piece to represent triumph over hardship. All three of these are hardy plants that survive the harsh winters to thrive again in the spring, so you might stitch a quilt or jacket or cushion with these designs as a gift for someone who is struggling with hard times to convey hope and faith that they will thrive again.

Most sashiko designs are simple line representations of one or more of three categories: the natural world (plants, animals, the elements), ideas (hope, health, prosperity, fortune,longevity) and the celestial world (blessings). Many combine meanings from more than one of these categories and knowing a little about the symbolism in a sashiko design can make stitching it a richer experience.

A note: There is also a category of design called mons. They are the family crest designs and were sashiko stitched or painted on garments, but they are a subject for another time!

The list below was taken from Wikipedia:
Tate-Jima (縦縞) — Vertical stripes
Yoko-Jima (横縞) — Horizontal stripes
Kōshi (格子) — Checks
Nakamura Kōshi (中村格子) — Plaid of Nakamura family
Hishi-moyō (菱模様) — Diamonds
Yarai (矢来) — Bamboo Fence
Hishi-Igeta (菱井桁) / Tasuki — Parallel diamonds / crossed cords
Kagome (籠目) — Woven Bamboo
Uroko (鱗) — Fish Scales
Tate-Waku (竪沸く) — Rising steam
Fundō (分銅) — Counterweights
Shippō (七宝) — Seven Treasures of Buddha
Amime (網目) — Fishing nets
Toridasuki (鳥襷) — Interlaced circle of two birds
Chidori (千鳥) — Plover
Kasumi (霞) — Haze
Asa no Ha (麻の葉) — Hemp leaf
Mitsuba (三葉) — Trefoil
Hirayama-Michi (平山道) — Passes in the mountains
Kaki no Hana (柿の花) — Persimmon flower
Kaminari (雷) — Thunderbolts
Inazuma (稲光) — Flash of Lightning
Sayagata (鞘型) — Key pattern
Matsukawa-Bishi (松皮菱) — Pine Bark
Yabane (矢羽) — Fletching